Nicholas Hoare reviews “Odd Bits” by Jennifer McLagan
Fergus Henderson, who wrote The Whole Beast – a classic on the subject – in 1999, has more lately been joined by the Australian-Canadian author, Jennifer McLagan, whose own books, Fat and Bones have now been crowned by her best book yet.
Odd Bits, lest the hackles rise, is a harmless, humorous and knowledgeable collection of recipes involving largely ignored, yet signally succulent meats, such as cheeks, shanks, briskets and kidneys.
This book is not only immensely reassuring, but remarkably easy to use, and introduces readers to a part of the meat counter all too frequently avoided. Handsomely produced, and, as always, amusingly written, it is yet another gastronomic byway explored by this reamarkably inventive cook, whose curiosity (and taste) seem boundless.
Much recommended by an old fan.
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